The last time the Hyde Park Restaurant Group decided on a departure from its flagship restaurant, the result was recently burned Jekyll’s Kitchen in Chagrin Falls — a mix of Hyde Park fine-dining staples and an attempt at a more casual atmosphere. It would be fair to say it suffered from a bit of an identity crisis.

The company, however, seems to have re-found its way with its latest iteration, ML Tavern in Moreland Hills, which stays true to Hyde Park’s exquisite fare and service and gets much more right than wrong in the setting in which they’re provided.

The restaurant, which opened in June in the former location of Fountain, without a doubt falls into the fine-dining category. But it’s a fresher take on the Hyde Park style — cozier and less formal. Its wood-paneled walls, covered in framed oil paintings, fire places and hardwood floors make ML feel rich but welcoming. A large bar and open kitchen add some more contemporary feel.

If you’ve ever felt that Hyde Park was fine-dining more appointed for your parents’ tastes, then ML Tavern might be considered your generation’s version.

Read more in Correspondent Mark Koestner's review: Dining Out: Casual fine dining is done right at ML Tavern in Moreland Hills.